SKU: 66837409147

"Rene Gruau" 1984 MAURIES, Patrick

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"Rene Gruau" 1984 MAURIES, PatrickMAURIES, Patrick [209] pp. Franco Maria Ricci Limited edition copy: 1115 6000 & 2886 6000 copies w publisher's clamshell slipcase 1984 13 3 4" x 9 1 4" A Franco Maria Ricci publication devoted to the work of the fashion illustrator Rene Gruau. Gruau's artwork epitomises 1950s fashion and style, and are as recognisiable as Dior's New Look, for which he provided numerous illustrations. Over 100 of Gruau's drawings are reproduced and are accompanied by

MAURIES, Patrick

[209] pp.

Franco Maria Ricci

Limited edition copy:

1115/ 6000 & 2886/ 6000 copies

w/ publisher's clamshell slipcase

1984

13 3/4" x 9 1/4"

A Franco Maria Ricci publication devoted to the work of the fashion illustrator Rene Gruau. Gruau's artwork epitomises 1950s fashion and style, and are as recognisiable as Dior's New Look, for which he provided numerous illustrations. Over 100 of Gruau's drawings are reproduced and are accompanied by Patrick Mauries text in English, Italian and French.

Count Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli della Caminate, professionally known as René Gruau (4 February 1909 – 31 March 2004) was a fashion illustrator whose exaggerated portrayal of fashion design through painting has had a lasting effect on the fashion industry. Because of Gruau's inherent skills and creativity, he contributed to a change in the entire fashion industry through the new pictures that represented the already popular designs created by designers in the industry. The benefits, including economic stimulation and enhancement of advertising are still present in the industry today via a new way of fashion illustration, fashion photography. Gruau became one of the best known and favorite artists of the haute couture world during the 1940s and 50s working with Femina, Marie Claire, L'Officiel, L'Album Du Figaro and an assortment of "high-style" magazines. Gruau's artwork is recognized and commended internationally in some of Paris and Italy's most prestigious art museums including the Louvre in Paris and the Blank in Italy. In addition to his international fame and recognition, "Gruau's artwork is known for its timeless and enduring style".

Personal life
Born Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli delle Caminate in Rimini, Italy, on 4 February 1909, Gruau was the son of an Italian count but instead of following in his father's footsteps and accepting the job of royal military commander his passion and inclination for arts led him to a love and pursuance of fine arts. When René's mother, Maria Gruau, a French aristocrat, and his father separated when he was three, he moved to Paris with her. Gruau then took his mother's last name, which is the name he is known by, opposed to his father's last name and noble connection. At fourteen, Gruau began to support his mother and himself by selling drawings to the Milanese fashion journal Lidel. He was inspired to pursue fashion illustration by his close relationship with his elegant mother.  He demonstrated talent for drawing throughout much of his early life and worked as an illustrator for fashion magazines such as Femina, Marie Claire, and Vogue in Paris in his teens and early 20s. Gruau found it difficult to find work during World War II and ultimately found little work for small or unestablished designers such as Christian Dior before he became popular during this time. He worked as he could and contributed to the concealment of Jewish refugees.

Career

Gruau's signature
Gruau's artistic talent in fashion illustration merited him publication at the age of 14 and by the time he reached 18, he was published internationally, in the US, Italy, and France. In his lifetime, Gruau worked for numerous magazines including Marie-Claire, Femina, Elle, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Flair, L'Officiel, Madame Figaro, and L'Officiel de la Couture. Gruau was hired by major designers like Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Rochas, Lanvin, Elizabeth Arden, and Hubert de Givenchy. Gruau gave life to their haute couture clothing and expanded their popularity with his captivating illustrations. Gruau's illustrations reinvented many of the designs and gave them lambency and radiance that the fashion industry previously lacked.

Gruau, whose posters often echoed both classical Japanese drawings and Toulouse-Lautrec's sketches of fin de siècle Paris night life, was perhaps best known for creating the marketing images for Miss Dior perfume and for Rouge Baiser lipstick. According to Alan Riding of the New York Times, "everything he did, he evoked the glamour and style of the world of high fashion". Because the technical age of the 20th century had yet to emerge, Gruau's pictures were the advertisements of the time and gave marketing and presentation of clothing a new brilliant flair.

Gruau's first position as artistic director for advertising was in 1947 with Christian Dior. The two together formed the "New Look" of the time, partially a result of Dior's designs, and partially a result of Gruau's combined interpretation and upgrading of old-style graphic illustration. Gruau formed a friendship with Dior that contributed to their successful collaboration and further enlargement of fashion advertisement, which a primary reason he is mostly remembered for his work with Dior.

Gruau moved to the United States in 1948 to work for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. He remained with the magazine for two years, and then went to work as sole illustrator for Flair. There were exhibitions of Gruau's work at the Paris Musée du Costume in 1989 and Musée de la Publicité in 1999. Rimini, Italy's Riviera, has a permanent collection in its city museum. Today Gruau's works are in the permanent collections of many art institutions, including the Louvre in Paris.

Impact on fashion
During Gruau's lifelong career he collaborated with fashion houses such as Givenchy, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, and Dior in the fashion area of haute couture. His advertising campaigns for Moulin Rouge and Lido de Paris utilised an old-world aesthetic, celebrating the traditional poster-art graphics of Toulouse-Lautrec, Bonnard and the pre-1900 Parisian artists. He continued to work in advertising designing the hugely influential cinema poster for Fellini's La Dolce Vita in 1959 and working on campaigns for names such as Dior, Air France, Martini, and Omega watches. He has been exhibited internationally at the Paris Musee du Costume and The Musee de la Publicite. The 2011 Spring/Summer Haute Couture Collection of Christian Dior by John Galliano was heavily inspired by Gruau's works

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SKU: 66837409147

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4.3 ★★★★★
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Krystle
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
MUST READ BOOK!!
Format: Kindle
I was in a huge reading slump, when one of my favorite authors recommended this book in her readers group (The amazing Marie Mistry 🫶) and I absolutely DEVOURED this book. Now I’m in the club crying about having to wait until December for Term 2! This book is about a girl named Pandora who has suffered a life that nobody would ever wish to have. This book is about Pandora learning how to live, learning about herself and what she really wants. She has a long journey to find out all of these things, but she took the first steps in this book and it was beautiful to read. Some of the men in this book are our dream men, Hunter and Reed 😍 and then we have the men who need some work and who we all really just want to beat up until they admit what they really feel, Skel, Bram and Dexter. But that cliffy was a killer and I absolutely cannot wait until the next book!! You have written an absolute dream of a book Lyra and I eagerly await the next installment in this series!!!
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Reviewed in the United States on June 7, 2024
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GhostHina
Cuba, US
★★★★★ 5
Addicting!
Format: Kindle
I could not stop reading. It was so refreshing to have a series start so completely different than most fated mates/fantasy academy rh I’ve been reading. From the desert scenery to the magic and feeding plus the psychological trauma the characters are there to deal with. Pandora is absolutely adorable and I totally relate to hiding behind my hair. I love that she’s literally the most scary type of demon but it’s not the usual “badass mc” persona (which I do love a badass that can fend for herself and kick ass from the start but it was a nice change of pace). I’m not usually a big fan of bully within the harem but each character has their reasons for their actions and also conflicting feelings about them. I adore Dex and Reed! Complete opposites but their personalities and inner monologues made them instant favs. I can’t wait to see the character growth with the guys and continued strength for Pandora. The captivating characters and references to the Fate Hallow series added so much depth and now I need another reread while I wait for book 2. The concept of magic and the unique feeding habits of the demon characters were intriguing. I can't wait for the next book to continue this thrilling journey. In summary, this book is a must-read for fantasy and magic academy rh fans. With its enchanting characters, nods to the Fate Hallow series, and imaginative concepts, it offers an immersive reading experience that hwill leave you craving for more.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 5, 2024
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𝔹𝕠𝕠𝕜𝕄𝕠𝕥𝕙
Lowell, US
★★★★★ 4
Best academy I've read this year
Format: Kindle
I need a few things when it comes to a first book of a PNR romance series 1-Good world building (which this totally did) 2-An FMC I can root for (oh hell yes, Pandora is someone I can cheer for) 3-Good drama (can you say GROVEL BOYS!) 4-Enough story to make you feel like you really read something with meat (you saw this book is like 600 pages, yeah?) 5-A hook at the end so I want more! (please, Lyra, gimmie more?!? I need more!!) Be aware this book is a slow burn, but damn do I feel like there'll be some big payoff when it finally happens. Who doesn't like the buildup?
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Reviewed in the United States on June 4, 2024
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Steffikins
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 5
Pandora’s Pain, Power, and Passion
Format: Kindle
I absolutely love this new world Lyra Winters has created! The spin on a Demon Academy setting was fresh, unique, and completely addictive. Pandora is a character who immediately captured my heart. Thought to be powerless and enduring years of brutal abuse from her mother, it’s no surprise that her powers emerge at the exact moment she needs them most. After her mother’s death, Pandora discovers her father is none other than Death himself, a soul eater with a dark legacy. Her journey at the academy is anything but easy, filled with challenges tied to her father’s infamous reputation, her barely controlled abilities, and the cruelty of those around her. Pandora is easy to root for, you feel every ounce of her pain, resilience, and growth. Along the way she meets Reed, a half-human dream demon who’s kind, steady, and the kind of friend everyone wishes they had. There’s also Hunter, a vengeance demon and counselor connected to her father, who adds another intriguing layer to her story. Then there are the bullies: Dexter, a brooding shadow demon; Bram, a chaos demon with a drinking problem and deep hatred for demon nobility; and Skel, a fear demon wrestling with his own darkness. They might hurt her, but they also can’t seem to stay away when she’s in danger, making for some deliciously complicated dynamics. This book hits so many of my favorite tropes: friends to lovers, enemies to lovers, and of course, the irresistible “who hurt you?” storyline. I devoured it, and I’m already diving straight into book two!
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Reviewed in the United States on September 4, 2025
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Brandi
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 5
So good!
Format: Kindle
Oh my goodness! What did I just read? Lyra Winters you have some serious explaining to do! That cliffhanger killed me! I am so happy to be back in the world of Kalista. This is definitely darker than Fates Hollow but oh so good. This is a fated mates reverse harem which I absolutely love. Pandora had a very hard and rough upbringing. She lives in pain constantly and it makes it hard on her. She struggles with everything because she was kept so isolated and is new to her magic. Pandora gets sent to the Reform Academy and all of them have reasons why they are there. I love how, after everything she has been through, she is still a nice person. She is growing and becoming stronger too. Love her character. The guys all act like jerks at first but all have a back story that helps understand why even though want to smack them. I'm here for the groveling that I'm sure will come. I love them all. They each bring something for her. They are all drawn to her though. This is a slow burn book but there will be more books in the series so sure it will build. Man, that cliffhanger was a doozy and need book 2 now!
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Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2024

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